Having found a 1855 pattern online for the bodice of Kelsey's dress, I laid out the material only to find that the pattern was missing some dimensions!  Using a number of triangles, formulas, sine, and cosine, I figured out the missing dimensions.  (I haven't used geometry since highschool, so I had to quickly look up the formulas online. )
Here is a screenshot of my calculations in Paint.  I think its time to adapt Solidworks ...
 
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